Day 11: Blessed and sobering

Today was a blessed and sobering day. We awoke to beautiful sunrise, the Sea of Galilee at peace. As I ran my early run, past the Church of the Multiplication, it was ablaze. Luckily, the fire was in the office and store ... This was an act of violence - some radical Jews who think Christians worship idols. Sad. 

This was counter-balanced by the intimate renewal of wedding vows by Greg and Alison Hout. Each person offered to them suggestions for 30 more years, and then we shared Eucharist. The nuns lets us use a small chapel. It was beautiful. 

Well where Mary met St. Gabriel

It was then off to where Mary meet Gabriel (and she said "yes") at the well. We literally stood at the well she did. Wondering what God would ask of us? And would we say yes?

St. Mary's Shrine

Icon at St. Mary's Shrine

A song at the shrine to Mary:

Next door was a shrine for Joseph. How quickly we forget his role in the story of Jesus and the House of David. Here's a video of the bells that played at noon between the shrines.

The day seemed to flow between the holiness of the shrines and the violence of news updates locally and from the horrendous murder of the pastor and his bible study class at the AME church in South Carolina.

We realized now, more than ever the need for God's love to be proclaimed and the breaking down of fear and bigotry here and in our own country.

St. Bartholomew Shrine

St. Bartholomew

I fly home tonight. The group flies home tomorrow night. Please pray for our safe travels, as we continue to pray for you.

Mark+

Day 10: Loaves & Fishes, Peter, Beatitudes, Moses and Elijah

Church of the Transfiguration, Mount Tabor

What a day. This pilgrimage has affirmed a hundred times the value in walking the walk of scripture – specifically, following the path of Jesus Christ.

Today’s first visit was to the Church of Multiplication.

AKA When Jesus turned fives loves and two fishes into enough food for 5,000 men (10,000 people) with twelve baskets full of leftovers. We literally touched the rock venerated since 50 AD, about a mile from his home away from Nazareth in Capernaum. Needless to say, Jesus taught the people how to SHARE what they had and experience the abundance of what God has given them when they share it - give to God to share with others.

A short walk and we were where Jesus called the disciples off the boat (post resurrection) and cooked them breakfast on the shore. And where he ask Peter: “Do you love me?” three times, commissioning Peter to “feed my sheep”.

Another short walk (we took the bus) to visit where Jesus lived when in town and the Temple he taught in.

Then a short ride UP the same hill back from the Sea of Galilee, to where Jesus often taught. In this case the eight lessons within the Beatitudes, all beginning with the words “Blessed are …” We took time to reflect on the how Jesus was teaching us how to literally love they neighbor and enemy. An interesting conclusion when only 10 miles from the Syrian border and after having witnessed the tension between Israel and Palestinians.

This was all followed by a short boat ride on the Sea of Galilee.

We took time to read about Jesus calming the seas and reflect on the peace that fell upon them all immediately following. We all shared when we have experienced peace in our lives and our desire to have more such experiences and to provide them for others.

A longer ride up the mountains to Mount Tabor to visit where

Jesus revealed his divinity, standing in the company of Moses and Elijah before a few disciples. In the far distance from this mountain top we could see Samaria, where Jesus taught another lesson at Jacob's well.

All in all a great day. Time for dinner on the sea shore.

Day 9: Tourists at Masada, Dead Sea, Scrolls, Dates

Day 9: Today we were tourists. We said goodbye to Jerusalem and began our journey to Galilee.

Our first stop was Masada. Herad the Great built this amazing fort over looking the Dead Sea. It became famous for protecting Jewish rebels after the fall of the temple for three years. An elaborate water, food and defense system have them the endurance before their inevitable fate. This photo is of the eastern facing corner - where the King's residence was built on three levels.

The following photos tell the rest of the story pretty well. 

Day 8: Upper Room, Last Supper, Pit and Peter

Today began with a short birthday run through the Old City, through Jaffa Gate to the wall, to say prayers as the early sun was rising and shedding bright warmth on this Holy City. 

Soon we were walking the narrow streets to the Upper Room.

The room itself was not very impressive, since it was built over and over again across the ages. On the other hand, when we took a moment to stop and breathe and listen, the spirit flooded our hearts and minds with power of what had occurred in this very spot: Jesus meets the disciples and women. He knows he will die soon … yet he has two more lessons to teach.

Imagine a world where we, all Christians, daily stopped to wash someone’s feet, especially someone they did not know?

And then we sang “Lord prepare me to be a sanctuary, pure and Holy, tried and true. With thanksgiving, I’ll be a living, sanctuary for you.” Indeed, Jesus puts his full trust in you to continue onward in his ministry. To bring the Good News to all people, no matter the sacrifice it requires. Jesus knew all about sacrifice, did he not!

We came across a reminder that Peter would deny him three

times. How many times have we, Christians denied Jesus in our daily lives? Denied Christ over the centuries? The answer is countless times. Walked on the very path Jesus walked to the garden - and then was paraded to prison and then finally to his death. Peter denies Christ three times outside the prison.

Am I willing to walk with Jesus? I cried to myself as I knelt to touch the stones.

Then we journeyed to where Jesus was taken, after being

arrested in the garden, tortured and humiliated - he spent the night in prison. The cells are caves under the court above. Crude and cruel. But Jesus was not placed in an ordinary cell - he was lowered through a hole in the stone into a very dark, stone pit. We read Psalm 88 - imagining his suffering for all humanity.

We then proclaimed the Good News! That Christ died for our

sins and sins of all generations. We need only turn to the Lord and we will be shown the way. God's love, we know, is unconditional and relentless thanks to the teachings, example and life and death of Jesus Christ.

A powerful way to conclude our time in the temple.

Day 7 afternoon: What is our charge?

In the middle of the day, we walked through the Holocaust Museum. Sorry, no photos. This was not a time for photos to be taken. For many, we had seen museums dedicated to truth telling of the atrocities of humanity upon fellow humans. And yet, we were all anxious to walk in. Indeed it was a powerful, heart breaking and undeniably transformative experience. It took us several hours.

I noticed the faces of groups arriving, with smiles, talk, energy and life. And I noticed the faces of those leaving, eyes down, quiet, bodies still and solemn steps taken.

Our group reflected tonight how powerful the museum experience was AND how sad it is that humanity continues to repeat such evil acts of human violence, systematic oppression and annihilation of entire races or populations. We were deeply troubled knowing the world today struggles to reconcile with this very truth. Maybe not to the scale of the Jew’s loss of life, but nevertheless, the systematic oppression and killing of peoples in the hundreds of thousands while the world seems to stand back and watch. Countless examples of refugees denied entry as the Jews were denied sanctuary in the United States and Britain. The killings in Guatemala, El Salvador, Rwanda, the Middle East, parts of Eastern Europe, parts of Asia are a few examples. And the reality that those who were oppressed in the past and now have power, often repeat the same upon others. The group did not resolve this - and neither did I.

Our hearts were heavy … and yet, we prayed to better understand how God was forming us today and this week to be agents of love, liberty, justice and peace in a broken world tomorrow.

How is God trying to wake us up, the people of St Bartholomew's, and send us out into the world? Romans 12:9-21 gives us the charge:

Marks of the True Christian Let love be genuine. Abhor what is evil; hold fast to what is good. Love one another with brotherly affection. Outdo one another in showing honor. Do not be slothful in zeal, be fervent in spirit, serve the Lord. Rejoice in hope, be patient in tribulation, be constant in prayer. Contribute to the needs of the saints and seek to show hospitality. Bless those who persecute you; bless and do not curse them. Rejoice with those who rejoice, weep with those who weep. Live in harmony with one another. Do not be haughty, but associate with the lowly. Never be wise in your own sight. Repay no one evil for evil, but give thought to do what is honorable in the sight of all. If possible, so far as it depends on you, live peaceably with all. Beloved, never avenge yourselves, but leave it to the wrath of God, for it is written, “Vengeance is mine, I will repay, says the Lord.” To the contrary, “if your enemy is hungry, feed him; if he is thirsty, give him something to drink; for by so doing you will heap burning coals on his head.” Do not be overcome by evil, but overcome evil with good.

Day 7: Magnificat

This morning I woke up early and walked with Greg through the Old City. This morning, a business day for Arabs and Jews, the tiny streets were quiet. We walked the Via Dolorosa in reverse, starting at station VIII. I was stuck by several small groups of faithful, participating in the full Via Dolorosa so early in the morning. In the chapel where Jesus was given the cross, a group from Asia sang in their native tongue at Station II. It was powerful as I knelt and prayed.

A few hours later we worshiped at the Anglican Cathedral. The service was in English and Arabic. The organ roared to life and we sang in unison, using either English or Arabic text. The sound was thrilling. I am beginning to see why the Bishop Kafity loved this community so much. We learned, as many of already knew, that the Christian population had declined from 25% to 1.5% of the local population in the past few decades. The Anglican Church is committed to providing education to children and health care: education to form future leaders with the gifts of diversity and collaboration, and health care to care for the victims of the endless struggles for Palestinians, Arabs and Jews working to bring peace to this land.

Later in the day, we visited the cave where Elizabeth learned

she would conceive a child, where Mary came to visit her three months later, and where John the Baptist was born. In each place we found ourselves in silence and in awe of the history and “holy ground" on which we stood. Bringing it all home to us were two tributes to the great prayers: Elizabeth’s husband Zachariah spoke when he regained his voice: the Benedictus. 

And then Mary’s prayer, the Magnificat.

A powerful journey in the past, made real in the present as we prayed and allowed our hearts to be moved by God’s loving embrace.

Day 6: Jesus' birthplace was...Spoiler alert!

Today we set off to Bethlehem. To get there from here, we needed to drive through a major Israeli check point, to get to the other side of the wall built to contain the Palestinians. No Jews can travel into the Palestinian area and no Palestinians can travel into Israel. The only exception is the Israeli Military forces. We were a bit anxious only because the check points and the Church of the Nativity are known for long lines.
Before we left the hotel, we prayed, singing all four verses of “Oh Little town of Bethlehem”. It was moving, to say the least.

  

The good news is that we got through smoothly. In a short time we were actually there: The Church of the Nativity. Good News at the Church of the Nativity: the queue was short when we arrived. By the time we left it was a good hour wait time. The church is under major renovations. It is the oldest standing church in the Holy Land - rebuilt in 565. The Greek Church controls most of it and the Roman Church and Armenian Church control the sides (literally left and right).

We slowly entered the cave area from the Armenian side, under the altar built to protect it. And one person at a time, knelt to pray, kiss and touch the very spot that has been venerated for close to 2,000 years. 

As we left through the Roman side, we tried to slow down, as we all felt rushed. So we stopped to recall the words of the magnificat.

We then went the place the Franciscans have been protecting and venerating a short distance away - in the fields. Here was a cave, used by shepherds for their own and their animals’ shelter at night. The Franciscans built an altar here.

Yes, that was big news to us all, that Jesus most definitely was born in a cave, not a manger. Indeed, the early writings refer to cave - but it was changed to manger.

Once we got over that fact, reality struck that we were at the very place of his birth and where the shepherds came to meet him. Greg Hout prophesied that this coming Christmas Eve is going to be amazing for us all, as he anticipated his mind will be full of images of being here and kneeling at his feet.

More to come.

Mark+

Day 5 afternoon: Mary's birthplace, Via Dolorosa

After lunch we visited the basilica of Mary, Jesus’s mother. The sanctuary had amazing acoustics. One member of our team defended St. Bart’s acoustics, but after listening to a solo chanted version of Psalm 23 in Mary’s Basilica,  remarked “Ok, I hear now--that was amazing acoustics.”  As we took time to pray, another group entered and began to sing in Latin. It was a powerful experience for me as I was swept up in beauty of God’s angels’ songs of praise. God was clearly preparing us for what was to come next.

Many of us have participated in the Stations of the Cross, a physical prayer on the move to recall the final steps Jesus walked. In some parishes, the Stations of the Cross is a weekly event. In others, they are reserved for Holy Week, especially Good Friday. Stations of the Cross in Jerusalem does not claim to walk the actual route Jesus walked – that was made impossible by the temples’ destructions, reconstructions and additional constructions over the centuries.

The Via Dolorosa is the practice of venerating the mystery of Christ’s life in places sanctified by prayers of the faithful over the years, decades and yes, centuries.

It was remarkable to stand in close proximity to where Jesus was condemned to death, flogged and then handed the cross to carry. As we walked the Via Dolorosa route, we found ourselves eyed by countless Muslim street vendors in the narrow corridors. We stepped off the streets, through what seemed random doorways, into little chapels for several of the stations. We were not carrying a cross as other groups were. In fact, we used the simple script found in the Episcopal Book of Occasional Services.

It was the end that took me for spiritual ride. We knelt to touch the hole where the cross had been placed – and literally sat at the base of the cross where Jesus died. The spot is under a short altar –the bedrock The Church of the Holy Sepulcher was built around. After more prayers and movement, we ended at the tomb of Jesus Christ. Before we entered, a group of Franciscan Monks came through, chanting a sung version of the Stations of the Cross and stepping in front of us to venerate. While we waited, I was swept up in the moment of chanting, the crowds of the faithful and my own need to be on this pilgrimage.

When it was our turn, a Greek Orthodox Monk let us in, four at a time. The first chamber is very small and we moved from there, almost crawling on or knees, into a smaller chamber. I found myself on my knees, weeping and overcome with peace. The Greek Monk was whistling at us to get out within minutes.

Without anticipating it, I had experienced all the emotions of Holy Week, all the emotions and more, in less than three hours.

Day 5, Morning: Ascension, Lord’s Prayer, Weeping, the Garden and Prayer

We all gathered at the top of the Mount of Olives--actually we were walked into a small area by the

Chapel of the Ascension. We listened to the history of the location: Jew-Christians, then Christians, then Muslims, then Crusaders … and then we walked into the shrine, and on the floor was a stone. Ascension Rock, marking the earthly place Jesus ascended after death and resurrection, after his appearances to the Mary and the Disciples. We were told this stone had been venerated since that day – almost 2,000 years. We started to sing, “Oh Lord hear my prayer, Oh Lord hear my prayer, when I call answer me …” and then one by one, everyone was on their knees. Voices singing or praying. Hands on the stone. A few lips that kissed it.

Twenty minutes later, we were at the Shrine of the Lord’s Prayer … one of the two places Jesus taught the Lord’s Prayer. We chanted the Lord’s Prayer. As I walked off alone, I sang the version of the Lord’s Prayer I taught the parish on Sunday before I left. I was surrounded by walls inscribed with over a hundred languages of the Lord’s Prayer.

After a short walk down the hill, we came to the chapel dedicated on the place where Jesus wept over Jerusalem. A mosaic with the hen protected its chicks is artfully placed on the center of the altar.

And then another short walk, and we were in the garden: the place where Jesus was betrayed. And the spot where the three disciples were unable to stay awake with him. The location where Jesus was arrested.

In each location, we were spellbound by the history, the unbelievable number of prayers offered at each place Jesus walked before us. It was not even 11 in the morning and we all seemed to be oversaturated with tears, prayers, hope and gratitude.

Then we journeyed from the Mount of Olives to the Wailing Wall, walking through the cemeteries for Jews, Christians and Muslims – an area were bodies are laid to be judged by God alone – before the possibility of their resurrection.

And throughout the morning, I was quiet. Hard to believe, is it not? (Miracles do happen.) I was quiet as my heart, mind and ears were filled with God’s voice: Feed my sheep. As I approached the Wailing Wall and set my forehead on the stone, I prayed for God to help us to be fearless in feeding other people. I prayed we would be willing to risk everything to bring the Good News to others. I was flooded with the countless prayers and cries I hear daily: Fr. Mark, I want my children and grandchildren to come to know Jesus. I want them to find strength in the relationship and joy of discovering that relationship in community – in Christian Community.

And then I took the small piece of paper, with my offering and prayers, folded up four times, and stuffed it between two rocks. And backed away. Overwhelmed that I had joined the chorus of humanity in a unique, sacred experience today – a chorus crying for peace, healing, courage and power over evil. 

Day 4: Aaron, Moses, Water: Petra

Today we awoke to God's creation at its best: the view from the hotel looking down towards Petra, one of the seven wonders of the world. On the peak of one is the Tomb for Aaron, brother of Moses.

As we hiked into Petra, we were all moved by the amazing work of God's creation. Along the way, a path worn down over 2,000 years, we found carvings in the walls of the three wise men, honoring their pilgrimage through Petra to go see the new-born Christ child.

And then we approached the main attraction, the Treasury. All you Indiana Jones fans: review the Temple of Doom.

We are all in awe of the people's ability to live within these walls. Families lived here until early 1990's.

I found myself singing during our four hour hike: All creatures of our God and King ... Oh praise him, Oh praise him, Alleluia.

Indeed we all were wowed by the beauty of God's creation.

Soon we will arrive at the border. We will say goodbye to Jordan and sleep in Jerusalem. 

Day 3: Hercules, Moses, Baptism

We started the morning in Amman. Visiting the area, we were reminded of the depth and richness of civilization in Jordan, with examples such as the Roman Temple to Hercules. After a short drive towards river Jordan, we arrived at Mt. Nebo, where Moses met God and was told to see before him the promised land, over the valley, what we call the Dead Sea and over to the River Jordan. It was a bit hazy, so we could not see Jericho and Jerusalem. Amazing to stand and try to imagine God's voice so clear ...

Saint Bartholomew's has been listening to God's voice - we are clarifying a vision to welcome and lead people forward into community and the Good News.

We then went to the actual place Jesus was baptized, referenced in the Gospel of John1:28: Bethany Beyond Jordan. This was the area where John the Baptist lived. It’s the same place Theodosius (AD 530) wrote about "... 5 miles north of the Dead Sea there is a single pillar ... And the church of St. John the Baptist ..."

We took a moment to renew our baptismal vows and break bread together. Recalling that after 30 years, Jesus was baptized and began his ministry, we asked ourselves what is God calling us to do tomorrow? Regardless of our age, God’s voice is calling us to serve. We had a moving moment as we reflected on this truth.

Baptism binds us together for ministry ... For the future of God.

Bible references today:
2 Samuel 10 & 11  (reference to the people of Ammon)
Deuteronomy 34:1 Moses and God: the promised land
Mark 1 Baptism of the Lord

Day 2: Amman

Our guide, Emad, welcomed us to Amman. 

Loading our bus as we head off to the hotel.
After 25 hours of travel, it is great be here.

The Group in Paris

Here we are! Not in order: Ana, Jill, Steve, Greg, Margaret, Maria, Nancy, Mark, Lupe, Amanda, David, Allison 

Pilgrims don't fly solo

Pilgrimages include travel and interaction with others. 

Mark & Jill unite with the Houts in Paris

We are in the midst of 24 hours of travel to our first destination in Amman. The idea of flying for 10 hours is not everyone’s idea of fun. Add 500 people and one can feel claustrophobic. Being seated next to a one-year-old, I confess I was a bit anxious. Of course, God works in mysterious ways. I learned in my business life to be compassionate to parents in airplanes. To the solo mom with her 1 year old, being crammed into the middle of a row could not have been her idea of the ideal way to travel. I found myself assisting with our hesitation. 

Over my shoulder, a woman was talking loudly, random thoughts with seemingly no one listening. The adults around her started acting frustrated, though oddly, I never heard anyone ask her to quiet down. It continued for hours. Back in my row, the little child was great. Sleeping for a few hours, then eating, diaper change and then back to sleep. I wonder if our first response to a stranger is compassion or frustration?

When I think about the caravans of pilgrims over the centuries to the temple, respective holy sites and historical markers … I wonder whether folks kept their eyes down and muttered complaints about the folks around them or, if perhaps, a warm heart and deep understanding of sharing the journey dominated. We know Mary and Joseph were not welcomed  before giving birth to Jesus. On the other hand, we know that when they caravanned to the Temple when he was a boy, children would roam up and down the line - everyone caring for each other's children.

We are about to board our second flight. A short five hours this time. I wonder whether my heart will be open or closed as I take  my seat?

And so it begins

And so it begins ... A pilgrimage. An intentional journey to a destination, an intentional journey to walk where those before us have walked, an intentional journey with others. Today we start ...many of us in the van leaving the church. Others meeting us at LAX. Others ahead, waiting for us. Despite all the planning, we now turn our time and experiences over to God. Praying that in every moment, expected or unexpected, Christ will be revealed to us, our spiritual self will be formed in to his likeness.

We commit ourselves to daily prayer: We pray for safety. 
We pray for our family and friends.
We pray for our parish and those who wished they could join us.
We pray to see Christ is all persons
We pray for open hearts and minds.
We pray those who are hungry, scared, homeless, sick.
We pray for peace. 

A daily prayer for my children

One of my most sacred moments, as a parent, is when I pray over my children at night. Whether they are awake or asleep. I place my hand on their head and pray aloud "May God Bless you and protect you tonight -  tonight, tomorrow and forever more. May God Bless you and keep you this night, that you may know God's love forever more." Year after Year they always settle in with this prayer. A prayer that is now engrained in their hearts, my heart and our shared bond with God.

Peace be with you,

Mark+